"A racing machine shall not be fitted with brakes, brake attachments, mudguards of any size, rat-trap or all metal pedals, toe clips or straps, lamp brackets, wing-nuts, any form of gears or any other fittings considered dangerous by the referee.
Handlebars shall not exceed 750mm in width measured in a straight line from end to end, each end shall be protected by a soft substance, preferably handlebar grips.
Wheel spindles shall not protrude more than 18mm outside the forks. Not more than 6mm of thread shall be exposed beyond the wheel nut with only one wheelnut allowed each side of the spindle on the outside of the fork.
Chain tensioners will be permitted provided they have no protruding spikes (these must be ground flat) and that the thread does not protrude more than 6mm. Tyres and pedals shall not contain any additional fittings, i.e. studs.
A spare uncovered sprocket on the rear wheel is permitted."
OK, so pretty straight forward rules which concentrate on the 'must-nots' rather than the 'must-haves'. So, if your bike meets these requirements then you can race it - even if it looks nothing like a typical machine! This means any old road bike stripped down is perfectly fine for beginners.
In competitions for riders under 10, machines may be used which do not fully comply with the regulations, so it's even easier to get started.
To be competitive however, many top riders will buy a custom designed frame or complete bike specifically for themselves and the job at hand.
So what is a typical cycle speedway bike like?
Frame & Forks Strong, lightweight and with compact dimensions. The use of straight forks and a short wheelbase results in excellent handling around tight bends. Today the Archie Wilkinson machines are the most widely encountered, and their new aluminium frame seems to be increasingly popular. But there are others available such as Pedalsport, Trac Star, Bio, Lee Cooper, Young Cycles and PedalPower. Ace Cycles were very popular in the 90's so you will still see plenty of their bikes around. A lot of these used Reynolds 531 tubing.
Some models are based on MTB frames for better compatibility with MTB componentry.
For the shorter junior rider there are more cut-down frames available than there used to be. Outgrown machines stock the second-hand market, so finding the right size for even the youngest age groups shouldn't be a problem.
As for finish, I personally recommend chrome plating. Not only does it look the business, it won't be chipped like conventional paintwork when someone ploughs into you!
I took the measurements of my Archie Wilkinson frame for reference.
Tyres The excellent 26"*1 3/8" Trelleborg Speedway knobbly tyre (which is also great on the road), served the sport well for many years, but it is no longer made. If you have any unused ones hiding away they could fetch a tidy sum!
This encouraged riders to try MTB wheels which offered a massive choice of tyres, but they have failed to appeal to everyone.
The Nokia Speed Hakka was the first replacement for the Trelleborg. They worked well enough for me but didn't really catch on, and most people have now switched to the latest tyre - the Schwalbe Speedway Pro. This is a direct replacement for the Trelleborg.
Wheels Steel wheels were common when I started racing, but you won't see many today. Be aware that cycle speedway is tough on wheels and light alloys can go a funny shape when you lose a few spokes! I recommend regular maintenance to keep your wheels straight. I now build my own wheels and have found DT Swiss spokes stronger than most.
Size-wise wheels have traditionally always been the same - to fit the 26" Trelleborg tyre (and now the Schwalbe). Those running MTB style frames may use a rim width to suit their tyre choice, while smaller frames may employ 24" alternatives, or even smaller.
Transmission Not long ago TA cranksets were by far the most popular due to the wide range of chain ring and crank arm lengths made. However, they are no longer widely available, and I personally think they are overrated. Nowadays you'll find a wide range of alternatives in use including the likes of Truvativ, Miche and Shimano.
The most important thing though is the no. of teeth. With no gears, getting the right ratio (of chain-ring to freewheel teeth) can be crucial to winning the race. 33:18 is the most common but factors such as track length, wheel size & crank arm length will have an effect on what's best. Too high a gearing and you'll be left at the gate, too low and you'll be overtaken/ worn out! This Gearing Table can be used to compare ratios.
Note a longer crank arm gives more leverage for a faster gate, but your legs will have to move in a bigger circle (so better suited to longer legs). It can also clip the ground or the front tyre if too long. 175mm is perhaps a safe bet for adult riders.
Insist on a quality chain, maintained in the tension, alignment and lubrication departments. The chain width should match the width of your sprockets. 3/32" derailleur chain is commonly available, but I don't recommend it - it's designed to come off! I prefer conventional 1/8" single speed components, like Izumi's nickel plated single speed chain.
The pedals department requires a bit of thought. Something too big might hit the ground while cornering. Something too slippery might cause an uncomfortable incident in the wet.
You'll find many riders use a plastic block covered with sandpaper.
Personally, I must have the right footwear too - good support, durability and a sole matched to the pedal. For example if the shoe won't slide a little over the pedal, it can be difficult to place your foot in the perfect position when exiting a corner.
Handlebars Personal preference plays a part here but a tight wrap-around 'Canadian Benz' style is the basic design favoured by virtually every rider. In the fifties wide 'Cow-Horn' bars were the thing. They were great for helping keep opponents behind you, but not the best for gating and tight cornering.
Grips are also a personal thing, but I tend to use old inner tubes wrapped around, but make sure they are secure. Avoid tapes like insulation tape - I prefer a fatter hold and it certainly ain't grippy.
Don't ignore your handlebar stem either - generally CS handlebars have a rise to them, so you only need a short stem. A lot of riders have their bars too high in my opinion. Quill type stems are now somewhat old-fashioned, but they still do the job.
Saddle Something light and uncomfortable is my recommendation. If you're spending time sitting down then you ain't going fast enough! Some riders may use a seat stem designed to push the seat further back, putting more weight onto the back wheel.
Brakes What are they? You big sissy :-)
Examples
